At 1st Class Pro Lawn, we provide excellent service for any of your landscaping needs in Central Western Montana. Below you will find answers to our most frequently asked lawn maintenance questions. For more information about our landscape and lawn care services call us at 406-273-2442. Thank you for visiting our website. We look forward to serving you!
Frequently Asked Questions
- Where do we service?
- How do I sign up for services?
- Why choose 1st Class Pro Lawn over another company?
- How do you bill me for your services?
- Do I have to sign a new service contract every year?
- What guarantees do you provide?
- When is my next application?
- If the weather is bad, will my treatmente be pushed back to a later date?
- My lawn treatment was done and shortly afterwards it began to rain. Is it still okay?
- How soon can I walk on my lawn after treatment?
- How many applications of fertilizer do I need?
- Will you leave me information about my lawn after each treatment?
- Do I have to water my lawn to keep it weed-free?
- Do I have to be present during your treatment?
- How do I make my lawn green?
- How often should I mow?
- What do I do about crabgrass?
- How do I control moss in my lawn?
- How do I know if I have a mole problem and what can I do about it?
- Why do I have mushrooms?
- What is causing the brown spots in my lawn?
- Core aeration: Who should get it and how often?
- Will core aeration control thatch?
- What can I do to help with pet spots?
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Where do we service?
We service the Missoula area and the Bitterroot Valley.
2. How do I sign up for services?
Signing up is easy, just call. Request the services you want. If we haven’t estimated your lawn, we will give you a free estimate on your lawn as soon as possible.
3. Why choose 1st Class Pro Lawn over another company?
Nearly 100% of our first time customers remain our customers today. We pride ourselves on providing superior customer service. We customize our services to suit your needs.
4. How do you bill me for your services?
After each service, our bill will be left attached to your front door. You may pay by check, credit card, or money order. We also have a pre-payment discount plan as well. Payments are due upon receipt of invoice unless other arrangements are made in advance.
5. Do I have to sign a new service contract every year?
Like your newspaper delivery service, we automatically continue treatments every spring. In case you forget, we start calling in April for those who have not prepaid for the year. To cancel your service, please call or write 1st Class Pro Lawn.
6. What guarantees do you provide?
The treatments your lawn receives from 1st Class Pro Lawn do not guarantee perfect results. The outcome depends largely on your mowing and watering routine, the amount of shade and trees present, soil and grass varieties, and many other variables. However, if you are not satisfied, we’ll keep working with you until you are.
7. When is my next application?
We schedule lawn applications in 6 week intervals. If you would also like to have a phone call as a reminder, just let us know.
8. If the weather is bad, will my treatmente be pushed back to a later date?
Please don’t worry if an application seems to be delayed. Weather plays a big part in when and where we treat. Our materials are blended especially for this climate and your lawn will most definitely be treated within the proper time frame.
9. My lawn treatment was done and shortly afterwards it began to rain. Is it still okay?
If it rains within an hour of one of our treatments, don’t be concerned. All of our treatments do best when watered in. If a heavy downpour immediately follows a treatment, call us as soon as possible and we can decide whether a re-application is necessary.
10. How soon can I walk on my lawn after treatment?
We ask that people and pets stay off the lawn for 2 hours following an application to allow the products to thoroughly dry or be watered in. We’ll post a flag after each visit.
11. How many applications of fertilizer do I need?
The answer to this question has more to do with how you want your lawn to look than what it needs. Current recommendations from Penn State University’s Extension Service indicate that 4 to 5 pounds of nitrogen should be applied per area over the course of the season. These amounts should never be applied all at one time. Somewhere between 4 and 5 applications of fertilizer are needed to be sure your lawn gets the nutrients it needs to be healthy.
12. Will you leave me information about my lawn after each treatment?
We leave written materials that explain what we have done and what you must do to assure a good looking, healthy lawn. Watering and mowing instructions, plus other information concerning your lawn, are also left after each treatment.
13. Do I have to water my lawn to keep it weed-free?
Water is the key to good results. An inch and a half of water per week is essential. It can come from a combination of rainfall and sprinklers, but if you can’t water properly, expect to see weeds.
14. Do I have to be present during your treatment?
There’s no need to be home during a treatment. It takes less than one minute to treat a thousand square feet of lawn, so we’re only there for a short time.
15. How do I make my lawn green?
First, start by watering properly. Without proper watering, nothing else you do to the grass will make it turn green. Next, apply a little fertilizer over the course of the season. Without some nutrients consistently added throughout the growing season, the grass will fade and become less green than it can be. Since you are watering and fertilizing, the grass is going to grow. Simply put, mow high and let it lie. If the lawn is cut improperly, it will not be as green as it could be.
If you put these three practices together in the right combination you will find that maintaining a green lawn is actually quite easy. But remember, once it gets green, there is a maximum level it will be. Once it’s looking good, enjoy it and don’t keep trying to make it greener. Doing so will put the lawn into a stress condition which will eventually cause major problems.
16. How often should I mow?
Your lawn does best if mowed once every fourth or fifth day. Long intervals between mowing can damage grass. Also, it’s best to avoid mowing when the lawn is wet or mowing during the hottest part of the day.
17. What do I do about crabgrass?
Crabgrass is an annual weedy grass that germinates in the summer and dies with the first frost in the fall. The best prevention is a dense, healthy lawn. For lawns that have an abundance of crabgrass, a preventive application in the early spring will prevent about 90% of the weeds from appearing. The few plants that do appear can be hand pulled or treated later in the summer before they go to seed.
18. How do I control moss in my lawn?
Moss can be a real problem and even tougher to control. Start by raking out the existing moss. Moss usually grows in damp areas with poor air circulation. Controlling moss first requires improving drainage (or removing the cause of excessive moisture) and improving air circulation if possible. Prune low hanging branches and move fences or other obstructions to encourage air movement. Anything to get more sunlight and air will help. Also, use the core aeration process to break up the soil. Moss will not do well in loose soils and it will not grow on a healthy, dense turf. Be sure you are following good watering, mowing, and fertilitization practices to encourage a healthy lawn.
19. How do I know if I have a mole problem and what can I do about it?
If you see a lot of tunnels running through your lawn or piles of dirt throughout the yard, you have a mole problem. Moles are a small, but very aggressive animal that live below the surface of the ground. They forage for insects to eat and will travel long distances to feed. In Pennsylvania there are two prevalent species of moles. Eastern moles cause the visible tunnels that criss-cross your lawn. Star nosed moles will tunnel deeper and then push up a pile of dirt that makes it look like a volcano has erupted on your lawn.
The best way to control the problem is to trap the mole and kill it. Harpoon, choker, and other types of traps can be purchased at hardware stores. Tamp down the tunnels to find which ones are actively used by the mole. Place the trap in an active tunnel and be patient. Other options available to you include applications of a mole repellent. Eastern moles in particular do not like the smell of this castor oil based material and in most instances, will quickly leave the area. Of course, this means they’ll probably go into your neighbor’s yard! Applications will have to be repeated once the effectiveness wears off. What doesn’t work is trying to control moles by applying an insecticide for grubs. While it is true that moles eat grubs, they eat all worms, insects, and bugs found in the soil. Moles don’t always equal a grub problem and applying an insecticide may cause larger problems in addition to the moles. Remedies such as chewing gum in the tunnels, Moth-Balls, hair, and other “folk remedies” have also been shown to be ineffective.
20. Why do I have mushrooms?
Mushrooms are a result of decaying organic matter (old tree roots, wood, etc) decomposing in the soil. There isn’t really anything you can do about it, but don’t worry, they don’t hurt your lawn. Mushroom simply indicate that there is plenty of moisture in the soil. Usually the mushrooms appear after a rainfall. Just give the soil about 3-5 days to dry out a little and the mushrooms will probably go away. The only way to eliminate the mushroom growth is to remove the organic matter and the surrounding soil. A very big task, if not an impossible one. Mushrooms are a sign of life in the soil… and that’s a good thing. Bear with them for a short time and they will dissapear. Or, when mushrooms do appear, simply mow them off.
21. What is causing the brown spots in my lawn?
Diagnosing the proverbial “brown spot” in a lawn can drive even a seasoned professional crazy. There are just so many things that can cause the lawn to turn brown and die in a spot. One thing you never want to do is to apply a control material without knowing exactly what the problem is. If you apply the wrong stuff, you may end up causing more problems than you are trying to solve.
So, where do you start? Have you been watering correctly? Lack of water will cause lots of yellowing and spots and other problems will become worse if a lawn is not watered correctly. Over-watering can also yellow a lawn and can kill trees and shrubs! What about mowing? If a lawn is mowed too short or not often enough, brown spots can and do appear. Do you have pets in the area? Both dogs and cats can cause spots… even if you don’t own one of your own.
If all that has been taken care of, we start to look for diseases or insects. While there are millions of different insects in this world, only five or six will cause damage to a lawn so it is pretty easy to know what to look for. Diseases are a little harder to pick out, but again, there are only a relative few that routinely cause damage so knowing the symptoms and signs can help narrow down the cause. A good diagnostic book from a garden center will help you spot the symptoms… or if you are a 1st Class Pro Lawn customer, a trained service technician will come and check out your lawn for free.
The bottom line is that there are too many different things that may cause a brown spot in a lawn. Take the time needed to properly diagnose the problem before jumping in to start controlling something. You’ll be glad you did.
22. Core aeration: Who should get it and how often?
Every lawn can benefit from core aeration. It is suggested that a lawn be aerated at least every other year, but preferably every year. There is no bad time to have your lawn aerated as long as it has proper irrigation. Fall is often mentioned as a “better” time only because of the high level of activity of the root system.
23. Will core aeration control thatch?
Core aeration brings cores of soil up from below the lawn’s surface. We recommend that these cores be mowed back into the lawn. By allowing the cores to mix back into the lawn surface the soil adds back microbial agents which are required to control thatch. This is not an immediate fix for a serious thatch problem, but is the best way to manage a thatch condition.
24. What can I do to help with pet spots?
Along with excessivley watering the areas affected to help flush out the ammonia, sprinkle some garden lime on the area and water it in generously. The garden lime will help fade the pet spots quicker by lowering the acidic level in the soil. This, along with regular fertilizing, will help the affected areas recover faster.